Even though belonging to the vastest appellation BURGUNDY, I though judicious to put apart the vineyard from Chablis and dedicate it a special section.
In that appellation, only white wines are produced under the name of Chablis, but some close soils may produce red wines of great freshness, and with a lovely perfume whenthey are issued from the cellars of the best producers. They must be overlooked by true amateurs.
More than 3.000 hectares may be used to produce CHABLIS. A little more than 750 hectares are added to those, and are called CHABLIS 1st growth, which main soils are "Montée de Tonnerre" or "LA FORET".
Finally, seven GRANDS CRUS extend on approximatively 100 hectares, and represent the top of that appellation.
The smallest of these grands crus, "Grenouille" has no more than 9 hectares to be produced on, and the widest, surely the most prestigious, "LES CLOS" extends upon 26 Ha.
This appellation CHABLIS knows an unbelievable worldwide success that is still going on, but this success leads too many winemakers to choose the easy way.
Fortunately, a handful of very talentuous winemakers keep on perpetuating the immortal tradition of long cellaring CHABLIS that reveal then, the rank and the richness of the wonderful soils they are issued from.
This man is as modest as his wines are great !
He is, along with Vincent DAUVISSAT, the banner-bearer of the appellation, "the tree that hides the forest"...
Everything is excellent here, and matures so well, with an elegance and a richness of flesh quite admirable.
Vincent DAUVISSAT has been practicing Biodynamie for years, but he never lentions it. Since, it is, for him a philosophy, and a strong conviction, like a part of himself, but is never a way to push himself forward.
He is far from looking after medias. He is an authentic man who leaves the wines speak for him.
And what a speech !! One with purity, the most precise minerality, and a terseness that reveals so well the jewels he is in charge of.
His wines are often closed in their youth, but begin to show magnificently after 5 years for the CHABLIS, 7 years for the 11st growths, and 9 to 10 years for the "grands crus".
And they are exceptionnally long-lived ! Drinking a bottle that is 25 or 30 y.o. is a magic experience that demonstrates - if necessary- how talentuous this man can be, he who, along with Jean Marie RAVENEAU, are the very best ambassadors of that appellation.